RECOGNIZING A SICK BIRD

I hope these guidelines will help you save your bird as most of the times birds are masters at masking their ill health as predators in the wild would take advantage of it, so by the time you realize that something is wrong, your bird could be seriously sick and can die very quickly...so keep your eyes wide open and observe and spend time with your bird every single day as this is the only precaution. First of all you should know what a healthy bird looks like- chirpy, active, good feather condition, then only can you recognize a sick bird.The first sign in my experience is that the bird becomes quiet, dull and lethargic, usually sitting in one place with a drooping tail, the eyes become oval or lemon shaped, it is critical to isolate your bird at this stage and MONITOR THE  DROPPINGS (usually watery, change in colour).First course of action should be to isolate and keep the bird warm and also to cover the cage. 

                                             a sick bird, note the listlessness and poor feather condition

The following is a categorized list of signs that should alert you that your bird is sick:

 General

poor general appearance 

fluffed feathers 

sitting at the bottom of the cage

not eating

changes in amount of drinking water

weakness

drooping wings/tail

listlessness, inactivity, depression

reluctance to move

sleeping more

lumps, bumps, swellings or bulges on the body

trauma

bleeding

changes in weight (increased or decreased

Behavior

any change in regular attitude, behaviour or personality

unusually tame behavior

irritability, agitation, biting

Eyes

closed eye

eye discharge

red eye

cloudy eyes

swelling around eyes

swelling of the eyes

Respiratory

labored breathing or open mouth breathing

tail "bobbing" with each breath

nasal discharge

blocked nostrils

increase or decrease in the size of the nostrils

sneezing (excessive)

wheezing 

coughing

cere (the skin around the nostrils) irregularity

staining of the feathers around the nostrils

change in voice or no voice

Skin and Feathers

abnormal feathers, dull color, texture, shape, structure, growth

bleeding blood/pin feathers 

prolonged molt

baldness or feather loss

feather changes, colour, chewed, plucked, damaged

flaky or crusty skin

excessive scratching

overgrown beak

abnormality of beak growth

abnormal beak texture, color,

overgrown nails

abnormal nails (i.e. color, texture)

sores on skin

trauma, cuts, bruises

lumps, bumps, swellings or bulges on the body

Musculoskeletal

sore feet

sore wing

lameness or shifting of body weight

swollen joints

paralysis

weakness

drooping wings

not perching, sitting on bottom of cage

Digestive and urinary

wet droppings

Diarrhea (watery feces)

change in the color of the droppings (i.e. red, yellow, green, tarry, pale)

staining of the feathers around the vent 

decreased droppings

straining to defecate

wet feathers around face and head

vomiting or excessive regurgitation

protrusions from the vent (prolapse)

Neurological

balance problems

head tilt

falling

seizures

unconsciousness

paralysis

not perching, sitting on bottom of cage

weakness

               healthy birds, note the alert appearance and how the tail is inline with the rest of the body      

Heat; A bird’s body temperature needs a large amount of energy to keep it at normal. We must help our sick bird to maintain its normal body temperature without reducing its energy levels. In only a few days a budgie can lose half of its normal body weight.

Quiet; you must keep a sick bird quiet and away from any noisy part of the house. Remove the birds toys and lower the perches to almost the bottom of the cage, darken the cage with a cover and this will encourage your sick bird to sleep.

Fluids; A sick bird is very easily dehydrated so fluids are very important. A bird with diarrhea will lose large quantities of water in its droppings and needs immediate help. Your sick bird may not drink much on its own and its temperature will rise, therefore you must help your bird by giving fluids like ORS.

SAFETY CHECKLIST~MUST FOR ALL

For all experienced people and beginners, here is a comprehensive list that is a must read...as we all know accidents can happen all the time and I have seen even very experienced bird keepers to make silly mistakes that cost them their bird's life...its better to be safe than be sorry!

BATHROOMS: Be careful when your bird is in or near your bathroom. Hazards like grooming products, cleaning products, open toilets, elastic bands, hair clips, and plugged-in electrical equipment (especially near wet surfaces) can endanger your bird if he is left unattended around them. Also be aware of any aerosolized chemicals like perfumes,deodorant, hair spray, etc., that your bird could inhale, as these are toxic as well.

CANDLES: While scented candles are especially harmful, even unscented, all-natural candles like beeswax can be toxic to birds. Even wicks without lead still release other toxins, the wax itself can cause an impaction if ingested, and of course an open flame can burn a curious bird.

CARBO MONOXIDE: Any home that uses gas should have a carbon monoxide detector in it, but it is especially important to be aware of CO levels when a bird is in the house. Because of their more efficient respiratory system, it can become dangerous at much lower levels that what is considered dangerous to humans. Make sure your bird's living area is well-ventilated.

CARPET: The glues used underneath it and the Scotchgard sprayed on it are both toxic to birds. As long as it has the new carpet smell, it is emitting those toxic fumes. Also, if a bird ingests carpet, it can cause an impaction. Carpet also harbors dusts, molds, fungi, and dander that can irritate your bird's respiratory system and cause or exacerbate allergies or even more serious respiratory illnesses.

CLEANING PRODUCTS: Almost any chemical cleaning product, especially scented ones, are toxic to birds. Beyondthat, they also tend to be expensive and contribute to human allergies. The cheapest, safest, most effective cleaning products in the world are water, vinegar, baking soda. These  products can clean,disinfect, and polish almost anything.

DEODORIZERS: Products like sprays, scented oils, potpourri, carpet powders, and any other

aerosolized scented product can cause serious respiratory illnesses in your bird. Instead, you can simmer spices and citrus rinds, or you can bring in fresh, nontoxic flowers, fresh eucalyptus branches and leaves, or other nontoxic herbs or aromatic plants such as peppermint.

DISEASE: Do not allow your bird to be exposed to other birds of unknown medical backgrounds. If you bring a new bird into your home, make sure to keep her quarantined for 90 days in a different building or a room with a separate ventilation system, and wash your hands and change your clothes between handling the two birds. Alternately, do not take your bird to a location where there will be other birds of unknown origin, such as an aviary.

DRY CLEANING: Dry cleaned clothing should be kept away from birds and in a separate ventilation system until the odor is entirely gone, as the chemical used in dry cleaning, perchloroethylene, is a known carcinogen.

FANS: Any kind of fan, either ceiling fans or floor models, should not be turned on when your bird is out of his cage. Even birds with clipped wings can get caught in a fan and killed or seriously injured.

FERTILIZER: Both inorganic and organic fertilizers are toxic for your bird. Even soil and compost can contain asper or other harmful fungi and molds. Do not let your bird come into contact with any of it.

FLOOR LAMPS:  floor lamps that open towards the ceiling with the bulb easily accessible

from the top – can badly burn a bird if he were to land on it. Make sure your bird has no access to lamp bulbs of any kind when they are hot.

GLASS AND MIRRORS: Flighted birds have been known to fly into windows, mirrors, or other transparent or reflectivesurfaces and be seriously killed or injured. Show your bird that they are solid objects or adorn them with something that will indicate to your bird that they are (such as curtains, blinds) and he will be much less likely injure himself in this way.

HOME IMPROVEMENT PRODUCTS: Paints, solvents, finishes, adhesives, Scotchgard, the dust from drywall and texturizers, and pretty much any other chemical product used in home improvement and repair is toxic to birds. These things are obviously necessary, so when you must use them, remove your bird from your home and keep your home well ventilated for several days before reintroducing him. The rule of thumb is that if you can smell it, it can still harm your bird.

KITCHENS: Be careful when your bird is in or near your kitchen. Hazards like hot surfaces, boiling water or food, smoke or toxic fumes, knives and scissors can kill or injure your bird.

METAL: Any metal that is soft or small enough to be swallowed by a bird can cause life-threatening toxicity. DO NOT let our birds chew on or play with any product that contains metal in even trace amounts. If he does, or you think he might have, take him to your vet immediately.

OPEN WIDOWS AD DOORS: DO NOT leave any windows or doors open if your bird is out of his cage. Even clipped birds can get out and a gust of wind can carry them great distances.

OTHER PETS: Monitor your bird carefully around other animals; even in play, they can injure each other. Bigger birds have been known to kill smaller ones. Ferrets, cats, and some breeds of dogs are natural predators of birds, and hounds especially should always be restrained or removed when a bird is out of his cage, as their chase instinct can override any training or socialization. Also, dog and cat saliva contains bacteria that are deadly to birds.

PESTICIDES: Any pesticides that a bird can inhale, ingest, or absorb through the skin can be deadly. This includes sprays, flystrips, foggers, powders, mothballs, flea collarsAND shampoos

PLYWOOD and PARTICLE BOARD: These wood products are toxic to birds. Use only pure, preferably untreated,wood to make perches, toys, or other items for your bird.

POISONOUS PLATS: There are many plants in our homes and yards that are highly toxic to birds if ingested. The list is long and the level of toxicity varies, but none of these plants should be kept in a home with companion parrots. The Humane Society publishes and updates a fairly comprehensive list here .

TEFLON: Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene) and other non-stick surfaces release a deadly gas when overheated that will kill birds instantly and cause flu-like symptoms in humans. It is also a carcinogen.

SALIVA: The saliva of humans and other animals poses a serious health threat to birds, as it contains microorganisms that a bird's immune system is not equipped to handle. Do not let your bird stick his beak or head into your mouth, do not offer him food that was in your mouth, and do not let your pets drool on, lick, or bite your bird.

SMOKE: Smoke from cigarettes, cigars, pipes, joints, bongs, burning incense, and even burning toasters or other appliances can cause severe irritation to the eyes, skin, and respiratory system of birds, and can even cause severe respiratory illness or even death. Nicotine is particularly insidious, since it lingers in fabrics, perches, and other porous surfaces and continues to cause irritation long after the smoke itself is gone.

STYPTIC POWER: Coagulants like kwik-stop or silver nitrate are great for stopping nail bleeds, but should never be used on a bird's skin or feathers. Cornstarch or flour can be used to stop minor bleeds.

SUBSTRATES: Litter of any kind can get impacted in a bird's crop if ingested, and also harbors harmful molds and fungi when wet. Wood shavings (not from all trees, obviously, but from the ones most commonly sold as wood shavings in pet stores: pine, cedar, and redwood) can also be toxic to birds and/or cause impaction, and should therefore also be avoided. Neither should ever be used to line your bird's cage trays. Instead, use paper of some kind (e.g. newspaper,pre-cut cage liners, etc.), and change it often.

TEA TREE OIL: While this product can be very beneficial to humans and other mammals, it is irritating to birds' skin and toxic if ingested. Keep this product away from your bird.

TOYS: All toys should be examined regularly for any loose parts, knotted threads, sharp objects, rusted metal, feces, or any other object that might pose a danger to your bird. One of my birds lost a toe from getting it caught in a knotted piece of rope (before he came to me), and another almost hung herself on a loop of raffia (while I was sitting there watching her play), so this is not an uncommon phenomenon. So even though toys are essential to a bird's well-being, they also need to be carefully checked to ensure their safety.

UNSANITARY CONDITIONS: Keep your bird's cage and tray clean to prevent the growth of molds and harmfulbacteria, as well as the accidental ingestion of feces and the attraction of unwanted pests. Clean all bowls daily and toys and perches weekly. Wash your hands before and after handling each bird. Change your clothes before handling your bird if you have come into contact with any other birds outside your home

NEVER FEED THESE TO YOUR BIRD~ FOOD SAFETY

 Here is a list of certain food stuffs that should never be a part of your pet's diet, don't forget that the bird is totally dependent on you for his health and well being so please feed him wisely..

*Dyes – Some birds eat dyed food and seem to have very few problems, but the fact is that birds' kidneys are not meant to process artificial dyes, and many birds fail to thrive if dyes are a part of their diet. Eclectus are especially susceptible to dyed foods, and have been known to pluck, wing-flip, toe-tap, or even succumb to renal failure.

 

*Sulfured fruits – You can usually tell a dehydrated fruit is sulphured because it will have an unnaturally bright color, although you can't know for sure unless the packaging specifically says that the fruits are unsulphured. Sulfuring can cause allergies and itchiness, which can then lead to feather plucking, and in high doses it can also cause respiratory symptoms like asthma. Avoid sulphured fruits whenever possible.

*Preservatives and flavor enhancers – Some preservatives and flavor enhancers are made from natural products and are just fine, but others pose a very real and serious threat to your parrot's health and well being if ingested on a regular basis. Some birds are highly susceptible to even the smallest doses, so they must beentirely eliminated from some diets. These products include: BHA (kidney toxicity), BHT (kidney toxicity),Ethoxyquin (carcinogen), MSG (brain and eye damage, common allergen), Propyl Gallate (liver toxicity),Propylene Glycol (kidney and liver toxicity), Sodium nitrate (carcinogen), Sodium nitrite (carcinogen).

 

*Dairy products – Remember that at no point in a wild bird's life would they be eating dairy products, so obviously their bodies aren't designed to effectively digest them. While they can sometimes benefit from the calcium, offer dairy products VERY sparingly, and watch your bird closely for adverse effects such as diarrhea or a sour-milk smell in his skin and feathers. If anything does occur, don't give your bird dairy products at all.Just like people, some birds are more lactose intolerant than others.

*Sugars, salts, oils – This one's a no-brainer. If it's bad for people with our big, hearty bodies, it's going to be extra-bad for birds with their smaller, more sensitive bodies. While these things can of course be nutritionally beneficial in small amounts, it's a terrible idea to let birds eat them in large amounts. Be especially careful of nuts and trail mixes that are sold for human consumption. They may seem like a great idea, since birds need to eat nuts and fruit, but they have waaaaaay more salt and sugar than a bird's body can handle.

 

*Peanuts – Yes, peanuts. Peanuts can harbor a dangerous mold called asper, which can pose a threat to yourbird's health. Asper is a mold that commonly occurs in the environment, and most birds' immune systems successfully keep it at bay. But if your bird's immune system is temporarily suppressed (stress, for instance, can cause this) or if your bird ingests a large quantity of asper (such as what can be found in some peanuts), the mold can overcome your bird's immune system and develop an infection. Aspergillosis is difficult to diagnose,expensive to treat, and can be fatal, so it isn't something to be taken lightly. Feed peanuts very sparingly or You'll be playing Russian Roulette with your bird's life.

***These other harmful foods should EVER be given in ANY amount:

Alcohol, avocado, caffeine, cassava (tapioca) root, cocoa products, raw meat, and the seeds and pits of apples,apricots, peaches, and plums.

DIY BIRD TOYS AND SAFE MATERIALS FOR YOUR PET BIRD

 TOYS ARE NOT OPTIONAL

The need To Chew

The need To Shred

The need To Preen

The need To Use Their Feet

The need To Problem-Solve

The need To Interact

The need To Forage

Birds need toys for all the above reasons and to keep themselves and their beaks busy and to stave off boredom, there are a huge amount of ideas to make simple, inexpensive toys that you can find.Sometimes I get some simple, safe keychains and hang them or wooden Ice cream spoons and sticks to thread together,  even  use wooden buttons and bottle caps and make simple toys which my birds love or just use some natural rope, just be careful that the toys are safe for your bird, some useful pointers are listed below, do keep them in mind as I have read quite a number of times, how a bird lost his life due to negligence on part of owner.

FOR SOME GREAT DIY TOYS CLICK  HERE

TO CHECK ON MATERIALS THAT ARE SAFE FOR YOUR BIRD CLICK HERE

PERCHES

The cage I bought came with 2 white plastic perches which I discarded immediately as plastic can lead to foot soreness, all the perches that I use are all natural wood, preferably Eucalyptus, known for its medicinal properties, since the birds chew the perches too.I CLEAN all the perches with a diluted vinegar solution once a week.I also give my birds leafy Eucalyptus branches/Neem branches to chew on on a regular basis, this keeps them busy and drives mites away too

 Size is a critical factor when choosing a perch. Your bird should be able to rest comfortably on his perch. Your birds feet should not wrap completely around the perch but rest on the top half . Perches that vary in diameter will give your bird a choice as to the most comfortable spot to roost. Several perches of different sizes also exercise the feet while improving strength and dexterity. Improperly sized perches can cause medical conditions, such as arthritis to develop.
Natural branches make the best perches. They not only give the birds a comfortable perch, but provide a source for chewing. Birds enjoy removing the bark and chewing the branches so they may need to be replaced often.  
Several perches should be placed in each cage at different heights. Place a natural branch at the highest level in the cage for the roosting perch. Make sure the roosting perch varies in diameter so that your bird can pick the most comfortable spot to sleep.However Do not overcrowd the cage with perches or toys. Leave enough room in the cage for exercise and wing stretching. 
Clean and disinfect perches as needed. Do not allow your birds to perch and play on dirty perches. Parrots often use their perches to wipe their beaks on, so the perch nearest the food dishes should be a perch that is easily cleaned and disinfected. Placement of the perches can make a difference on how often they need to be cleaned. Try to install the perches so that they do not cross under or over another perch. If your bird is pooping on a lower perch then move a perch a few inches in either direction to prevent it from becoming soiled. Make sure that perches are completely dry before you return them to the cage. It is best to have 2 sets of perches so that you can always have a clean dry perch ready to replace a dirty one.

		Perch Diameter Recommendations
Bird Size	Perch Diam.
X-Small	1/2" or less
Small	1/2-5/8"
Medium	3/4-1"
Large	1-1.5"
X-Large	2-2.5""

Stability is another important factor to consider when installing perches. Your parrot needs to feel secure and a perch that wobbles, or is slippery, may contribute to slip and fall accidents, this is important for mating purpose too.
In conclusion, provide your birds cage with several perches that vary in texture and diameter. Choose your birds perches carefully, considering all aspects of your birds behavior, size, and health and your bird will benefit from long term health and happiness. 
 

Perch Types
Image	Qty	Type
	1	Therapeutic Perches Therapeutic perches help trim your bird's nails and may lead to a reduced need for nail trimmings. Try to place one as the highest perch in the cage or near your bird's favorite food dish--this will help make sure it gets used.
	1-2	Natural Wood Perches Natural wood perches are the best perches for your bird's cage. Not only do they offer different diameters for your bird's feet, but they are also good for your bird to chew.
	1-2	Rope Perches Rope perches are also a great addition to a cage. They provide a different, softer surface as well as a different size for your bird's feet.
	0-1	Heated Perches Yes, there are such things as heated perches. These perches are used to help regulate your bird's body temperature and comfort.
	0-1	Shower Perches Shower perches can be very fun for a bird that likes to spend time with you in the shower.
	0-1	Dowel Perches Wooden dowel perches usually come with a cage and are cheap and easy to clean, but do not provide the size variety that your bird needs. It's ok to use one as long as there are other types of perches in your bird's cage.
	0	NO Sand Paper Perches DO NOT use sand paper perches or sand paper perch covers. These are too abrasive for your bird's feet and can lead to injury.
		Not too many perches It's important not to overcrowd your bird's cage with perches. He should still be able to spread his wings without hitting a perch.

CHECKLIST FOR CHOOSING THE RIGHT CAGE

 Don't make these common mistakes!

The most common mistake that Parrot owners make when buying their Parrot a cage, is to buy one that is too small! At a minimum, Parrots need to have enough room in the cage to spread their wings out, flap them and turn around on their perch without neither their wings nor their tail touching the bars of the cage.

The general rule of thumb when selecting a cage for your Parrot is to always buy the biggest cage that you can afford! I cannot emphasize this enough...

A lot of people feel and often tell me that keeping a bird in a cage is a crime, here pls do understand that for pet birds, it is their home and safe haven, a place where they can retreat to...sort of their personal space :-), my 1 pair of budgies have a cage usually meant for 2-3 pairs.

Choose your parrot's cage with care

Did you know that when choosing a cage for your Parrot, a longer cage is much better than a cage that is tall and narrow? Most Parrot’s like to fly from one side of their cage to the other side. But don’t forget that for taller Parrots or Parrots with very long tails, such as macaws, the cage height must be adequate for them as well.

Never buy a round cage for a Parrot! This will lead to a very nervous Parrot indeed! Parrot’s need to have a sense of security and in a round cage there are no walls or corners for your Parrot to hide against when he feels anxious.

Another tip to remember when choosing a cage for your Parrot is to make sure that the cage is not painted, as most Parrot’s will eat away at the paint. If the paint is toxic, your Parrot can get sick or even die!

Do you know which cage is better for your parrot?

Don’t forget that your Parrot’s new cage will have to be cleaned regularly so the easier it is to clean the better for you and your bird. Wide doors that give you easy access, trays that fit the bottom and can be pulled out readily, are good things to look for when choosing a cage.

Bar spacing is another matter to be concerned with. If you select a cage which has too huge of a bar space, your little parrot might be just be able to squeeze himself through and escape, or worse yet get his head stuck between the bars! If the cage has a very small bar spacing your Parrot could get his toes wedged in between the bars!

Does your parrot have right perches in his cage?

You will also have to choose the right perches, food and water dishes and toys for your Parrot’s new cage. While this can be a fun activity for the whole family, you should remember to buy perches that are of the correct diameter for your Parrot’s feet and make sure that the toys don’t have any parts that are easily breakable or your Parrot might ingest them. Toys are one of the best boredom-breakers for Parrots. Always buy a variety of toys and rotate them weekly in your Parrot’s cage.

A word of caution though, if there are too many toys in your Parrot’s cage, he will run the risk of breaking blood feathers in his wings if he flaps his wings too hard and a toy is in his way.

You will stop:

• Worrying that your parrot will get hurt in a cage that is too small or too large;
• Wasting money on the wrong style and type of cage;
• Stressing that your parrot will open the cage door on its own and escape;
• Buying the wrong type of toys that your Parrot easily becomes bored with;
• Trying to figure out the best location for your Parrot’s cage.

Given below are the approximate cage size and bar spacing of different Parrot species. Since cage is so important in your bird's life, special attention should be given to the actual cage size and bar spacing.

Name of the Parrot Species	Cage Size
Parrot	Cage Size: 24" W x 24" H x 24" D for smaller Parrots 5 ft W x 6 ft H x 3½ ft D for larger Parrots Bar Spacing: 1/2" for smaller Parrots 4" for larger Parrots
Conure	Cage Size:24" W x 24" H x 24" D approximately Bar Spacing: 5/8" to 3/4"
Macaw	Cage Size: 24" W x 24" H x 18" D for smaller Macaws 5 ft W x 6 ft H x 3½ ft D for larger Macaws Bar Spacing: Not more than 4" apart
Cockatoo	Cage Size: 24" W x 36" H x 48" D for smaller Cockatoos 24" W x 48" H x 48" D for larger Cockatoos Bar Spacing: 1" to 1.5"
Parakeet	Cage Size: 24" W x 24" H x 36" D approximately Bar Spacing: 1/2" to 5/8"
Lovebird	Cage Size: 24" W x 24" H x 24" D approximately Bar Spacing: 1/2" to 5/8"
Budgie	Cage Size: 18" W x 18" H x 24" D approximately Bar Spacing: 1/2" or less
Cockatiel	Cage Size: 20" W x 20" H x 24" D approximately Bar Spacing: 1/2" to 5/8"
Parrotlet	Cage Size: 24" W x 24" H x 24" D approximately Bar Spacing: 1/2"

CHOOSING A HEALTHY BIRD/BUDGIE

A week back I added 2 female budgies and for this visited 4-5 different PET SHOPS, the condition there was- about 30-40 budgies, mostly sick, housed in a single small cage.Now out of these I have to appropriately select a bird keeping in mind that my other healthy budgies don't fall sick.In the first 2 shops I selected one bird but she was not a very healthy one so rejected it, in the third shop got one Lutino, a bit undersized but active...came home disturbed and appalled at the dirty cages and dishes and the condition of the birds. Next day selected another Albino from a different shop, slightly better that the first three shops.

I have yet to come across a bird breeder here, so all that talk about a hand weaned, parents known, good bloodline goes for a toss for me here in India on a local level.

                                                     New additions to my flock
PLEASE be careful and alert when picking a healthy bird, as most of these pet shop owners will pass on a sick bird to you, as in my case he tried to convince me that a deformed beak and dirty vent is perfectly normal!

Things to look out for-

• Don't buy a bird on impulse. Before buying any species, do some research.
  
• Choose a store that has a good environment for their birds, as per my experience it is difficult to come by, but we have to make the best of what we have. This includes a clean cage fresh water, fresh foods.
  
• Choose a bird with a clean vent area. A dirty vent can be an indication of bad hygiene, digestive problems, or some other medical problem.
  
• Count the toes. A normal, healthy budgies should not be missing any toes. Also watch to see the bird perching, grasping, climbing, and basically making good use of its toes. If the toes show any abnormal scaliness this could also could be an indication of the existence of mites which is something to avoid.
  
• If you are shopping for a young budgie, look for the horizontal bars on the forehead of the bird. After the first molt, (at about 3 or 4 months) these bars will disappear.
  
• Look for clean, clear nostrils. Avoid buying a bird with caked on mucous on its beak or nostrils. This is a clear indication of a respiratory problem.
  
• Listen to the bird breathe. If you can hear 'clicking' sounds this may be a sign of air sac mites or other respiratory problems. A wheezing budgie is not a healthy budgie.
  
• Feathers and Wings: A healthy bird should have complete wings. The wings may be clipped, but make sure that all the feathers are there. The feathers shoud be shiny and full.
  
• An alert and playful bird is generally a better bet than the small, quiet budgie that sits alone in the corner. Alertness and activity is usually one sign of happy, healthy bird.
  
• Look for a bird that is a good weight. Overweight budgies often show an obvious indented 'line' down the breast where the keel bone is. The fattier tissues are pushing beyond the keel. In an underweight budgie, the keel bone sticks out from the rest of the body tissue and is often a sign of a digestive problem or other health issues.
  
• Check the beak. The beak should meet cleanly, be relatively smooth, and not overgrown. An overgrown beak is often a sign of mites, or other more serious problems.
  
• Look for a bird that looks happy and active, this is the most important aspect.

• In case of budgies, the nostrils are located on the cere (two in-depth holes), so it's easy to find it. It's located over the upper bill (upper part of beak) & is coloured depending on the bird's gender, age, & health. A mature (over 4 to 6 months old) male's cere will be royal blue in most cases and a female's cere will be a dark brown or tan, however when they are "out of breeding condition", they will have a sky-blue cere with white mostly surrounding the nostrils. Some male birds such as albino budgies (pure whites with pink eyes - no other colours anywhere) may have an even pink cere colour throughout their lifetime.

•                                                Male and female adult budgie

• An immature male budgie will have a pinkish-purple cere until it reaches 4 - 6 months old. An immature female will have either a pink cere with white mostly around the nostrils or b) a sky-blue cere with white mostly surrounding the nostrils.